Mini Bear Travels

Giro d’Italia: stage 9

Posted on May 12, 2013 by Kathryn

Today’s stage was 181 kilometers long with several steep climbs thrown in. Beginning in Sansepolcro, the stage featured several rated climbs and finished with one last climb up to Florence’s Piazzale Michelangelo.

I found a great spot just a couple of meters shy of the finish line where I watched the crew finish setting up.

And then it started to rain. And then it started to pour. For hours. It wasn’t much fun for the fans so I can only guess how miserable it must have been for the peloton. At least I was directly across from a VIP tent that was broadcasting the race so I got to follow it as the race approached Florence, even if I did have puddles in my shoes.

I was starting to think I wouldn’t get any photos of the finish and then someone flipped a switch and turned the rain off about 30 minutes before the riders were due to arrive.

Katusha’s Maxim Belkov (Russia) had escaped with a breakaway at kilometer 21 and even though he was dropped by the leading pair on two climbs, he caught them on both descents before riding away on his own for the remaining 70-odd kilometers. The audience was predominately Italian and were gunning for Vincenzo Nibali but they loudly applauded Belkov’s impressive ride as he approached the finish line.

Argos-Shimano’s Tobias Ludvigsson of Sweden lunges for 4th place.

Cadel Evans (Australia, BMC) edges out Beñat Intxausti (Spain, Movistar) and pink jersey Vincenzo Nibali (Italy, Astana) for 5th place.

There was some serious schadenfreude going on as the crowd rejoiced whenever the announcer remarked that Bradley Wiggins (Great Britain, Sky) was barely maintaining contact with his group and that Ryder Hesjedal (Canada, Garmin) was suffering badly. Here, Hesjedal finished with teammate Tom Danielson (USA) just in front of Spanish road champion Francisco Ventoso (Movistar).

I headed over to the winners’ podium in time to see the presentation of the white jersey to Blanco’s Wilco Kelderman (Netherlands). It was starting to rain again as you’ll see from the many umbrellas.

Blanco won for the best team.

Maxim Belkov (Russia, Katusha) received a tray for his stage victory.

Leaving the interview area was blue jersey winner Stefano Pirazzi (Italy, Bardiani Valvole).

Nibali ducked out through a different exit.

Matt Goss (Australia) of Orica-GreenEDGE.

A little while later, Cadel Evans came out where I was standing. He saw me with my camera and, still on his bike, smiled and said, “I’ve got to run! Sorry!” and rode off. I didn’t mind though–this was now my third exchange with Cadel over the years. Maybe next time I’ll finally get a photo with him!

I did manage to get one photo I’m pretty excited about. No one seemed to be paying attention when Belkov was leaving and since I happened to be right at the gate, I asked for a picture and he was happy to comply.

Stage results

1. Maxim Belkov (Russia, Katusha) 4:31:31

2. Carlos Betancourt (Colombia, AG2R) + :44

3. Jarlinson Pantano (Colombia, Colombia) + :46

4. Tobias Ludvigsson (Sweden, Argos-Shimano) + :54

5. Cadel Evans (Australia, BMC) + 1:03

General classification

1. Vincenzo Nibali (Italy, Astana) 34:19:31

2. Cadel Evans (Australia, BMC) + :29

3. Robert Gesink (Netherlands, Blanco) + 1:15

4. Bradley Wiggins (Great Britain, Sky) + 1:16

5. Michele Scarponi (Italy, Lampre) + 1:24

So happy Mother’s Day, mum. Know that you’ve got a very soggy but delighted kid in Italy right now.

Categories: Italy | Tags: cycling, sports | Comments Off

Giro d’Italia: stage 8 time trial

Posted on May 11, 2013 by Kathryn

I was literally up with the sun this morning just to be sure that I would catch a train and arrive in Gabicce Mare, Italy with enough time to secure a prime viewing spot for today's stage of the Giro d'Italia. Stage 8 was a 54.8 kilometer individual time trial on a tough and unusually hilly course. Each of the 201 remaining riders of the original 207 started at 1 minute intervals, with the final 15 riders going at 3 minute intervals, in reverse order of the general classification.

The start was a short walk from the train station in Cattolica. I quickly picked up some snacks from a bakery and made a beeline for the starting area. The riders wouldn't begin for several hours yet so the only people around were the Giro crew, police, and local cyclists hoping to ride the course before the pros did. I had no problem parking myself just beyond the 10 meters sign where I spent the next while watching the starting podium take shape.

Fans slowly started to accumulate. Usually the barricades are decorated with flags and signs but most of today's fans came empty handed. An exception was this guy who paid tribute to Marco Pantani, a great but troubled Italian cyclist who died from an overdose in 2004.

Alone and in pairs, cyclists emerged from the team area for some last minute scouring of the course. Kanstantsin Siutsou (Belarus) and Salvatore Puccio (Italy) of Sky.

A minute later, Bradley Wiggins (Great Britain, Sky) pulled up to talk with his crew. (Note the gold finishings unique to bike.)

Over the course of the morning, I spotted riders from just about each of the 23 participating teams.

The Giro is about passion for cycling but it's primarily about making money as far as the sponsors are concerned. There was a human caravan handing out trinkets to eager fans before they all did a choreographed dance to what I can only presume to be the official Giro song. There was even a mascot (a mountain goat??).

Meanwhile, riders were still scouting the course–or trying to. This poor guy from Colombia got stuck for several minutes waiting for a folk dancing troop and a marching band to move on.

About half an hour before the start, a woman in a flowing gown walked out carrying the Giro trophy on display. I'd only ever seen it on television before and it really is gorgeous.

Finally it was time for the main event! Sitting 1:24:12 behind the leader after stage 7, Australia's Jack Bobridge of Blanco had the dubious honor of being in dead last place, meaning he would go first today. I don't know how much Italian he speaks but he seemed relaxed and smiled away while the emcees chartered in Italian.

I took a photo of all of the 200 riders who started the stage (France's Julien Berard of AG2R did not start) but I won't overload you, dear reader. Instead, here are some of what I consider the highlights. (Although if you'd like to see a picture of someone not included in this post, tell me who you want to see in the comment section below!)

A deep exhale from David Millar (Great Britain, Garmin).

Davide Appollonio (Italy, AG2R) took so long to arrive at the starting podium that Nathan Haas (USA, Garmin) moved in to wait for his turn. Appollinio showed up in time.

Gert Steegmans (Omega Pharma-Quick Step, Belgium) sporting a bandage.

Robbie Hunter (South Africa, Garmin).

In the Italian tricolor, time trial champion Dario Cataldo (Italy, Sky).

I always thought riders were just grimacing at the start but after watching today, I realized that many of them are actually smiling! The audience, though large, was almost dead quiet. When he was introduced, Iljo Keisse (Belgium, Omega Pharma-Quick Step) motioned to the crowd to cheer louder for him. He still has a grin on his face when he pedaled onto the course.

Taylor Phinney (USA, BMC).

Canadian time trial champion, Svein Tuft (Orica-GreenEDGE). I gave him a cheer that was plenty loud.

Thomas Dekker (Netherlands, Garmin) loved being the center of attention and hammed it up for as long as he could on the podium.

Alex Dowsett (Movistar), the British time trial champion, was among those I saw riding the course this morning.

The time trial champion of Australia, Luke Durbridge (Orica-GreenEDGE).

Ioannis Tamouridis (Euskaltel-Euskadi), the Greek time trial champion.

Looking like a bumblebee, my new favorite rider of Vini Fantini since a member of his crew handed me his unused water bottle at the Ronde van Vlaanderen last month, Oscar Gatto (Italy).

The first rider to get much reaction from the spectators was Cav (Great Britain, Omega Pharma-Quick Step). He looked so calm, probably because he knew he wasn't expected to win today. He's in red because he is leading the points classification.

A few riders later was Pippo Pozzato (Italy, Katusha), always a crowd pleaser. See how he's looking off to the side and sticking his tongue out and smiling? Pippo was making that face for the benefit of a young man in a wheelchair, who was absolutely beaming after Pippo's antics.

I don't know if this is his preferred look or if he's exploring other career options but John Degenkolb (Germany, Argos-Shimano) has a serious 70s porn mustache.

As you'll know if you follow this blog closely, Garmin is my favorite team so I gave a huge cheer for Christian Vande Velde (USA, Garmin) who acknowledged me with a smile and a wave!

The time trial champion of Slovenia, Robert Vrecer (Euskaltel-Euskadi).

Ramunas Navardauskas (Garmin), time trial champ of Lithuania.

Ben Gastauer (AG2R), time trial champion of Luxembourg.

Adam Hansen (Australia, Lotto Belisol), winner of stage 7 yesterday and celebrating his 32nd birthday today!

Peter Stetina (USA) of Garmin.

Peleton veteran, Vladimir Karpets (Russia, Movistar).

Tanel Kangert (Estonia, Astana).

Bradley Wiggins (Great Britain, Sky).

As soon as he stepped on the podium, Rigoberto Uran (Colombia, Sky) began to signal to his support car that his earpiece or radio wasn't working.

In the white jersey awarded to the best young rider, Rafael Majka (Poland, Saxo-Tinkoff).

Tom Danielson (USA, Garmin).

Sammy Sanchez (Spain, Euskaltel-Euskadi), winner of the 2008 Olympics road race.

Cadel Evans (Australia, BMC), who lives in northern Italy, was well received by the audience. He gave a quick smile of appreciation.

The defending 2012 Giro winner and the man I cheered so loudly for that the guy next to me turned to me and said, “Oh, he must be your boyfriend,” Ryder Hesjedal (Canada, Garmin). Ryder seemed pretty focused on preparing for his ride so he didn't acknowledge my cheering but he must have heard me since even the emcee paused to look in my direction.

The crowd finally woke up for Vincenzo Nibali (Italy, Astana) and gave him a great sending off.

You've got to respect a man in pink: Beñat Intxausti (Spain, Movistar), the overall race leader after 7 stages.

Almost as soon as he left the podium, the crowd began to disperse and the crew started to dismantle everything.

I walked to the train station and quickly got over my disappointment that I would have to wait over an hour for my train as this meant I was able to catch the end of the stage on TV at the train station's cafe.

Stage results

1. Alex Dowsett (Great Britain, Movistar) 1:16:27

2. Bradley Wiggins (Great Britain, Sky) + :10

3. Tanel Kangert (Estonia, Astana) + :14

4. Vincenzo Nibali (Italy, Astana) + :21

5. Stef Clement (Netherlands, Blanco) + :32

General classification

1. Vincenzo Nibali (Italy, Astana) 29:46:57

2. Cadel Evans (Australia, BMC) + :29

3. Robert Gesink (Netherlands, Blanco) + 1:15

4. Bradley Wiggins (Great Britain, Sky) + 1:16

5. Michele Scarponi (Italy, Lampre) + 1:24

Categories: Italy | Tags: cycling, sports | Comments Off

Predjama Castle, Slovenia

Posted on May 9, 2013 by Kathryn

Built on a cliff and partially inside of a cave, Predjama lives up to its name, meaning “in front of the cave.” Archeologists can confidently date aspects of the castle as far back as the 12th century, though there may have been a dwelling here even earlier. Regardless, nearly a thousand years later, Predjama remains an impressive sight.

Of course, the castle seen today is much larger than the castle a thousand years ago, or even 500 years ago. The castle's current design is from the late 16th century when the entrance tower was added.

Much more interesting is the tale of Erazem. Living in the 15th century, Erazem had achieved his wealth as a robber. One day he finally crossed the wrong person and Erazem was chased back to his castle by representatives of the Austrian emperor. Determined, the soldiers did not leave their position in front of the castle, believing Erazem or a member of the household would have to come out eventually. What they didn't realize was that a secret tunnel out of the cave existed. Erazem would leave the castle unseen and then ride a hidden horse to the neighboring town to buy fresh cherries and other necessities. Once back in the castle, Erazem would pelt the would-be attackers with fresh cherries! This went on for over a year. Needless to say, this behavior didn't impress the soldiers, who eventually found a servant who was willing to betray Erazem. Despite the castle's superior defensive location, there was one place that was particularly vulnerable. At the time, bathrooms were on the outer edges of castles. A signal was worked out so when Erazem went to answer the call of nature, the servant signaled and the soldiers launched a catapult (or fired a cannon, depending on which version you believe) which killed Erazem and caused considerable damage to the castle.

Walking through the medieval castle, it is impossible to forget that you're also in a cave. The walls are built right up against the cave, which offer great defense but also mean living here must have been cold, damp, moldy, and drafty.

The court room.

Like all good castles, Predjama had a torture chamber directly off the court room. How efficient.

There are a few outdoor walkways which connect the various parts of the castle.

This bridge leads into the cave.

This picture looks back towards the cave entrance. A roped off staircase leads up to where Erazem kept his horse to make his secret escapes from the castle.

Below the castle is another, smaller cave, visible in the lower left corner of this photo.

For another few euros, I bought a ticket to enter the cave and ended up getting a private tour since I was the only person in the group! Unlike the caves at Postojna, there is no electricity here. At one point I asked if we could switch off our flashlights. It was pure darkness in a way that we rarely get to experience in modern society. In all, we walked less than a kilometer through this particular cave. Some parts were low and narrow, again in contrast to big, open Postojna. Other than insects, the only other living creature here were some surprisingly cute horseshoe bats. Thousands of them hibernate here every winter, causing the management to close this cave for about 6 months annually so as to not disturb the bats. The only photo that turned out was this one of a long and steep staircase we ascended as we neared the end of the cave. We had entered the cave underneath the castle and near the bottom of the 127 meter cliff, but we exited the cave well above and to the right of the castle.

Predjama is just 9 kilometers from Postojna, but since there is no public transportation there, I had to round up 2 one-way rides with people. Despite this minor hassle, Predjama Castle and the cave in particular were well worth the visit!

Categories: Slovenia | Tags: animals & wildlife, castles, caves & tunnels, myth | Comments Off

Postojnska Jama, Slovenia

Posted on May 9, 2013 by Kathryn

Postojnska Jama is even more fun to visit than it is to say! This 20 plus kilometer series of caves is among Slovenia's most visited attractions. While Slovenia's karstic land means there are plenty of other caves in the country, the caves at Postojna are the biggest and most explored to date. These caves were formed about 3 million years ago by the Pivka River, which flows below the caves today. Because the entrances to the cave are so far apart, the temperature is a chilly 8 Celsius/46 Fahrenheit year round.

Visitors are able to see about 5 kilometers of the cave at Postojna. The first 2 kilometers are experienced on a train ride. If you are over 6 feet tall, you're going to want to duck from time to time! The train takes you under a few low ceilings and through multiple massive caverns. At one point, the ceiling is oddly and suddenly black. During WWII, Germans and Italians occupied the area. Russian POWs built bridges inside the caves. Some Slovenians discovered that the Germans were storing fuel in the caves and so they sabotaged the fuel supply. The resulting smoke charred the ceiling.

After the train, tourists assemble by their preferred language and a guide leads them for a walk in the cave. There's a good and steep incline for the first several minutes leading to the top of Great Mountain and then it's pretty much downhill or flat from there.

There are three main galleries: spaghetti, white, and red. The spaghetti gallery is a cave with so many little stalactites, it looks like a million strands of raw spaghetti hanging from the ceiling. The white gallery (pictured below) is made of pure limestone, hence the brilliant white. And the red gallery is that rusty orange-red due to the presence of iron oxide.

Among the approximately 90 species living in the caves is the proteus, commonly called the human fish. So nicknamed for their pale white color, the human fish has perfectly adapted to cave life. They live for about 100 years, can go 5 years without eating, and have no eyes. They're kind of creepy looking, like some invading species out of a cheap sci-fi movie! It's hard to get a photo of them since a camera's flash is apparently damaging to their light sensitive skin. They're only 20-30 centimeters long when fully grown and are amphibious. In fact, they are not fish at all but salamanders, though Slovenians like to say the human fish are actually baby dragons (more on Slovenia and dragons in an upcoming post!).

The final stop is called the concert hall. It's 3,000 square meters and has a capacity of 10,000. In the 1800s, concerts were often held here because the acoustics are so favorable. The problem was that because the air is so saturated with water, wooden instruments like the violin would expand after absorbing so much water, altering the sound, making instruments nearly impossible to keep in tune, and strings would often spontaneously break. Concerts were revived in the 20th century once electricity was brought to the caves. This time the problem was that because water drips from just about everywhere, electric speakers would often short and, on a few occasions, people were electrocuted (though no one ever died, the guide assured me). Today events are held here from time to time including acrobats and basketball tournaments.

At this point, everyone reboards the train for a short ride to the exit. The train passes some familiar spots before taking a different route. The train comes to a stop where the Pivka River emerges. Seeing how fast and strong the river is, it's not hard to imagine it carving out this extended network of caves over time.

My ticket included entrance to the Vivarium which, also inside the caves, has some great exhibits on the cave dwelling wildlife.

Don't believe the gift shop: you don't want to cuddle with a real human fish.

Categories: Slovenia | Tags: animals & wildlife, caves & tunnels, unique nature | Comments Off

Koper, Slovenia

Posted on May 8, 2013 by Kathryn

Leaving Izola, I missed my train by about 10 minutes which meant I spent the morning walking around nearby Koper for a few hours. Koper is a larger version of Izola: a busy harbor, popular sunbathing spots, outdoor cafes, winding streets. The main difference is that since it's that much closer to Italy and is one of Slovenia's main ports, it's noticeably busier.

Koper was once a walled island. The main road demarcates the former island's border and today portions of the old gate still stand.

If you keep your eyes open, you're likely to spot lions throughout town. They are left overs from when Venice ruled.

I climbed the 204 steps up the 43 meter tall belfry for a great view of red rooftops and the Adriatic Sea. The peak and cross extend another 11 meters, making it the tallest non-apartment building in town.

A word of caution: these bells are loud!

Categories: Slovenia | Tags: architecture | Comments Off

Izola, Slovenia

Posted on May 8, 2013 by Kathryn

Smushed between Italy and Croatia, geography and history have permitted Slovenia a mere 42 kilometers of coastline. Incidentally, this is about the distance of a marathon. I don't know if the whole coast is pedestrian friendly–there are some serious looking commercial ports along the way–but I love the idea of eating breakfast in one country, running the entire coast of a second country, and ending up in a third country in time for a generous lunch.

I spent a lazy day in Izola, about midway along the coast. Not surprisingly, most of the town's activity was centered around the harbor: restaurants with outdoor patios, cyclists touring the coast, and people doing, um, whatever it is they do with their boats.

There is no beach in Izola but there are a couple of popular spots for sunbathing and getting in the water.

It's a very small town so you cannot get lost, but there are enough twisting streets, blind alleys, and dead ends that it's fun to go for a short wander. I picked the clock tower as my destination and eventually found my way there after some good wrong turns.

Since I was the sole guest at my hostel, the owners let me borrow their bike and go for a ride in the evening. It was too cloudy for much of a sunset, unfortunately, but it was nice to watch the silhouetted sailboats on the horizon.

Categories: Slovenia | Tags: beach, cycling | Comments Off

Tunis, Tunisia

Posted on May 5, 2013 by Kathryn

My first morning in Tunis, I got off the metro severely misinformed. This was the one and only time there was any space at all in the train!

Every other time, the metro looked like a can of human sardines. I never got a photo of it, but usually there were a couple of kids hitching a free ride on the bumper at the back of the train. If “Back to the Future” had been set in Tunis, I'm sure that's how Marty McFly would have gotten around!

Avenue Habib Bourguiba, the city's main thoroughfare Iined with boutiques and cafes and leafy trees, is a massive boulevard that would not be at all out of place in Paris.

At the far western end of Avenue Bourguiba is the Bab Bhar, a stone arch that leads to the medina's main entrance.

You can buy most anything you'll ever need here: from western clothes to carpets to sweets and beyond, they've got it all.

There are two mosques in the medina, Zaytouna Mosque being the main one. Historians disagree as to when it was built, but most believe parts of it date back to the 8th century. Over the centuries, it has remained an important and respected center of Islamic education. Measuring 43 meters, the minaret can be spotted from all over the medina.

For every place I visited over my few days in Tunisia, there were two more that I didn't get to. Next time, I'd love to spend some time in the Sahara. Tunisia is definitely going on my list of countries to return to.

Categories: Tunisia | Tags: architecture, religion, transportation | Comments Off

Kairouan, Tunisia

Posted on May 2, 2013 by Kathryn

Visiting the walled coty of Kairouan 7 times is equal to visiting Mecca once. Known as Islam's 4th holiest city, Kairouan is not only religiously significant, it's also a beautiful place to explore.

Zaouia Sidi Abid el-Ghariani (the Mausoleum of Sidi Abid el-Ghariani), built in the 14th century, was my first stop. It is known for its elaborate woodwork and hand crafted details.

Bir Barrouta (Barrouta Well) is said to be connected to Mecca. A camel walks in a circle to activate the well. Drinking the water is said to provide good luck so, with eager Tunisian eyes watching me, I took an obligatory sip. Fortunately, my stomach has been fine, so I will count that as my good luck!

The Mosque of Three Doors dates back to the mid 9th century and is the oldest known decorated facade in all of Islamic art and architecture. It features 3 different inscriptions and a series of winding flowers above the 3 doors.

From the street, the Maison du Gouverneur is easy to miss in its nondescript state. Step inside and you'll find richly carved ceilings, intricate latticework, women weaving carpets from patterns committed to memory, and a small army of determined carpet salesmen. Very determined.

The main attraction here is the Grand Mosqué, built in the 9th century. The 8 meter tall exterior walls are sedate and relatively unadorned. The interior courtyard is probably big enough to comfortably host a soccer match but I'm guessing that would be discouraged.

Seventeen carved doors open onto the prayer hall.

The main doors are left open for non-Muslims to peer into the prayer hall.

Several of the columns feature inscriptions.

Climbing to the roof of a nearby restaurant reveals a perfect view of the Grand Mosqué.

Kairouan is a busy city, so it's no surprise the marketplace was bustling.

I would love to spend the night in Kairouan if only to see how the changing light illuminates the city. As it was, just walking around on a sunny afternoon was beautiful.

Categories: Tunisia | Tags: architecture, religion | Comments Off

31 goals

Posted on May 1, 2013 by Kathryn

I’ve never been a new year’s resolution person, but I do appreciate a good list, so here are the 31 goals I’ve been working on for the past 12 months.

Accomplished!

1. Take a photography class

2. Plan a trip with a friend met while traveling

3. Rent out my apartment

4. Be able to identify the flags of 100 countries (I can identify 181 flags!)

5. Go to a fortune teller

6. Keep track of my spending

7. Use Couch Surfing

8. Surprise someone

9. Fit into my gray pants

10. Renew my Canadian passport

11. Read a book in Spanish

12. Get an autograph from an Olympics medalist

13. Climb a mountain

14. Make a decision based on the result of a coin toss

15. Use an outdoor shower

16. Get someone to join or visit me on a trip

17. Learn a Shakespearean sonnet by heart

18. See gorillas in the wild

19. Spend at least 6 consecutive months outside of North America

20. Build a fort

21. Do a destination half marathon

22. Donate my hair to Locks of Love

23. Visit my 75th country

24. Donate $10 a month to support a good cause

25. Go rock climbing

26. Do a race in a costume

Not accomplished…yet!

27. Read “Turning Back the Pages”

28. Ride a tandem bike

29. Learn the dance for “All the Single Ladies”

30. Go through a hedge maze

31. Volunteer for at least 10 hours

All in all, it’s been a pretty good year.

Categories: world wide | Tags: miscellaneous | 2 Comments

Dougga, Tunisia

Posted on April 30, 2013 by Kathryn

It's hard to describe how striking Dougga was. I was completely unprepared for it. My Lonely Planet had said it was an impressive site of Roman ruins and it was just a couple of hours south of Tunis, so I decided to head down there and take a look. There was a bizarre incident on the bus where one passenger walked to the front and started slapping another man across the face and screaming at him, but I lived in New York long enough to know there are crazy people everywhere, and then every taxi I stopped in Tebersouk demanded 20 times the local rate to take me the last few miles out to Dougga, so I was a bit tired by the time I did manage to find a driver who asked a fair price. I figured I'd spend an hour at Dougga, take some photos, and go back to Tunis, the end. So when the taxi turned a corner and I looked out the window to catch my first glimpse of the magnificent ruins at Dougga, I knew immediately it was already worth the hassle.

Dougga was formerly Thugga, a Numidian town founded around 500 BC, which became a Roman settlement in 46 BC. Like Carthage, Dougga has been occupied by various ruling cultures over time.

Given the height of the columns and its exceptionally well maintained state, the capitol does not fail to impress.

The theater seats 3,500 spectators! Dougga is perched on a hill and the view from the theater gives a 360 degree view of the surrounding countryside.

The Romans built underground tunnels.

More of the incredible mosaics that I love.

Archaeologists have found thousands of Libyan, Punic, Greek, and Roman inscriptions which have made invaluable contributions to modern understanding of ancient life.