Carthage, Tunisia

Posted on April 28, 2013 by Kathryn

It's incredible how many layers of history are found in Carthage. It was originally founded by the Phoenicians in the 9th century BC and flourished as an important trading post due to its prime location on the Mediterranean beginning in the 6th century BC. During the Punic wars, the Romans eventually destroyed and conquered Carthage before rebuilding it. Carthage was later the capital under the Vandals. After the Arabs destroyed the city in 637 AD, Carthage never managed to recover its former glory and has since been in the shadow of nearby Tunis.

 

The ruins have been preserved to varying degrees.

 

The museum houses pottery, statues, mosaics, and other remnants.

 

I'm blown away by the amount of detail and vision that went into composing and creating the mosaics.

 

Mini Bear went in for a closer look of some of the relics which had been incorporated into a stone wall.

 

Shards which have been assembled into large slabs.

 

Not to be forgotten, the local commuter train stop is named for one of history's leading military strategists who occupied Italy for 15 years.

 

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Shut up legs!

Posted on April 27, 2013 by Kathryn

This weekend I had the wonderful privilege of meeting one of my heroes: cyclist Jens Voigt. He was participating in a charity bike ride to raise money for The Epilepsy Society in New Forest, England. The evening before the ride, the weather didn’t look terribly promising with one direction pure sunshine and the other rain and hail clouds. In other words, it was typical British weather.

 

I’ve been known to lose my cool and be completely and utterly dumbfounded in the past when meeting cyclists, so I am quite proud to report that I was my normal Kathryn self when I met Jens! There were about 20 of us at a small event the night before the ride where we got the chance to chat with Jens. As luck would have it, I was sitting with two guys at the table nearest the door (we were the first ones to arrive, after all!) so when Jens came in, he headed over to our table and just started talking. He spent a good chunk of time with us before moving on to the other tables, which gave me a chance to check out his bike.

 

There’s a classic Jens-ism on his bike. It’s well known that when his legs are aching and exhausted in a race, he says, “Shut up legs!” and soldiers on.

 

He’s also got some impressive numbers on his frame, counting his crashes (100), pro wins (64), and broken bones (11), among other stats, all of which add up to 1 Jens.

 

Despite a long day of international travel, giving interviews, and fulfilling obligations to his sponsors, Jens was energetic and cheerful as we chatted about the state of cycling today, other riders in the peloton (he does some really good impressions!), and life in general. He signed autographs and posed for photos, all the while smiling sincerely. There’s a reason why he’s known as the nicest guy in the peloton.

The man who took this photo said to me, “Wow, that is a big smile!” Absolutely!

 

In the morning, the clouds and sun fought each other and there was a noticeable difference in temperature when the sun clouded over. Most of the other cyclists complained about not having a third or fourth layer to wear. Meanwhile I was in just bike shorts and a jersey! I managed to control my shivering but when the fourth person offered to loan me a jacket, I took him up on it.

 

The 42 mile ride took us through some gorgeous scenery. There were even wild ponies roaming around! Alas, there are no scenic photos as the ride took every ounce of my energy! We rode in groups of 8 so that every one would get the chance to chat with Jens along the way. One of the gentlemen in my group was kind enough to stick with me and give me more than the occasional push so that I didn’t drift too far back. The fact that I was riding in my running shoes and on a rented bike didn’t help my speed, but I’ve never been a fast cyclist anyway. Having my own domestique to look after me was an enormous help, not to mention that he was a great tour guide and told me all about the area. It turned out my domestique was Robin Wilmott, a photographer who had taken this well known photo of Jens when, after his frame broke early in a mountain stage of the 2010 Tour de France, Jens’ only option to continue was to borrow a junior bike which was far too small for his lanky legs in order to rejoin the peloton and make it to Paris. When it was my turn to chat with Jens, he laughed and said how impressed he was to see me cycling in so little gear! I finished the ride in a little over 3 hours, which was fine with me considering how long it had been since I last did any real riding.

 

After the ride, there was a raffle and even though the rain had held off, I still downed several cups of tea to warm up again. As I poured in the milk and sugar, Jens came over to congratulate me on finishing in my running shoes! Later, the other cyclists teased me that I had done it just to get noticed.

 

I was lucky enough to spend some time with Darren Kenny, a British Paralympian with multiple cycling gold medals both on the road and the track. It’s pretty humbling to get to talk with such an accomplished athlete, so I was delighted that he was so eager to hear about my travels.

 

Jens sat to happily sign autographs and take photos with all of the participants.

 

I couldn’t resist and had my picture taken with him again!

 

The nicest guy in the peloton? Mini Bear and I certainly think so!

 

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Sidi Bou Saïd, Tunisia

Posted on April 20, 2013 by Kathryn

Visiting Sidi Bou Saïd, just a short ride north of Tunis on the commuter train, is like stepping into a postcard. With its crisp white buildings and bright blue doors and windows, everywhere you look is a photograph begging to be taken.

 

There were at least twice as many Tunisians as tourists there, spending a lazy day in Sidi Bou Saïd, exploring the streets and sipping fresh strawberry juice at the cafes.

 

It’s a small town and I could have easily walked from one end to the other of the main stretch in just a few minutes, even with the street at times full of tourists buying souvenirs or locals buying sweets, but it’s the kind of place that insists on a leisurely stroll.

 

The main street, which is pedestrian only, ends conveniently in front of a cafe with fabulous views of both the town and the Mediterranean.

 

From here, I unknowingly took a picture of the president’s house. He’s got a pretty good view from the looks of it.

 

While in Tunisia, I stayed with a family who told me not to miss the long staircase leading down to the port. It’s a good thing they said something, or I wouldn’t have known to seek it out. As I descended, I realized I was probably the only foreigner on the stairs. The others hadn’t known to look for it and so were missing out.

 

There was plenty of activity at the port: boats docking and others heading out for the day, busy cafes, couples sitting on the rocks. The water was a little too cold for my liking this early in the season but the beach itself was busy enough.

 

After hiking back up that long staircase, I took the train back to Tunis, which was more packed than any rush hour Manhattan subway I’ve ever been on! Fortunately, a group of boys pushed the doors open again at every stop which gave us passengers some nice air conditioning.

 

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Toronto on the rocks

Posted on April 19, 2013 by Kathryn

My cousin, her boyfriend, and I spent a recent afternoon at The Rock Oasis, a rock climbing gym in Toronto. After a lesson on how to belay, we were turned loose in the gym.

 

We headed first to the auto-belay wall. The initial goal for us was simply to feel a little more confident and comfortable being 20+ feet up in the air and then careening back and zipping back down to the ground. With the auto-belay, you attach the auto-belay rope to your harness, and then start climbing.

 

Then climb to the top!

 

To come back down? Just let go of the wall and lean back!

 

Once we felt comfortable with the height and coming down, we had a blast exploring all of the other available climbing walls.

 

One of the more challenging walls in particular caught my eye. It had a fantastic little nook that I was eager to try wedging myself into. It was a total group effort for me to make it up this far as I needed Carolyn and Joey's ground level perspective to figure out which holds I should aim for since they were few and far between. Climbing is not unlike a vertical game of Twister!

 

From now on, I'll have to keep my eyes open for climbing gyms on my travels!

 

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Bruges

Posted on April 17, 2013 by Kathryn

Bruges is every bit the cute fairy tale town I had expected. Aside from the masses of tourists, the only ugly thing in the whole town was the Ito Pavilion. When the city was named a European Capital of Culture in 2002, Toyo Ito's Pavilion was constructed, intending to link the past and present. I'll give him the benefit of the doubt that it may once have been lovely, but today it just looks dingy and sketchy, like somewhere you would go if you were planning to overdose on drugs.

 

Fortunately, just beyond this monstrosity is a gorgeous square with three connected buildings: Bruges Vrije, Renaissancezaal, and stadhuis (City Hall). Bruges Vrije is covered in early Baroque gold statues while stadhuis is content with its replicas of the statues torn down by French soldiers in the late 18th century.

 

Stadhuis is just shy of being 600 years old and the Gotische Zaal (Gothic Hall) inside is just as impressive today as it must have been back then.

 

The Church of Our Lady (Onze-Lievevrouwekerk) is probably best know as the home of Michelangelo's Madonna and Child. Sculpted from marble, this is one of the only Michelangelo pieces outside of his native Italy.

 

The Groeninge Museum is known for its collection of Flemish art, including Jan van Eyck's Madonna and Child with Canon van der Paele and Hieronymus Bosch's bizarre and fascinating triptych, The Last Judgement.

 

The Belfort rises 83 meters tall and dates back to the 13th century. It's well worth climbing the 366 steps to reach the top for a panoramic view of Bruges, so long as you don't mind steep, narrow, twisting staircases.

 

Just wandering along the canal and getting lost in the streets of Bruges, you're sure to come across plenty of picturesque spots.

 

(Although you may need to pull out the map from time to time.)

 

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Lille

Posted on April 12, 2013 by Kathryn

Lille is one of those places you go to because you're going somewhere else. For me, it was Paris-Roubaix. I somehow managed to get a few photos that make it look uncharacteristically pretty and French.

 

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Belgium miscellaneous

Posted on April 11, 2013 by Kathryn

In case you were wondering about fines for failing to clean up your dog’s poop, Antwerp and Bruges make it pretty easy to find out.

 

Two museums I skipped but could have easily been persuaded to visit.

 

With staircases as narrow and steep and winding as this, it’s no wonder Ikea and their flat packed furniture does so well here.

 

For the record, board games are way more fun when (a) they have Flemish names; (b) the rules are printed only in Italian; (c) you are missing pieces and have to download a dice app in order to play; (d) you use Google translate to see what you’re supposed to draw in Pictionary and discover that Perzisch kater means “Persian hangover;” (e) you’ve had two Belgian beers and decide to call a weird poultry game Chicken Knockers.

 

This country is crazy for cycling, be it a professional race or your daily commute. Everywhere I looked, there were signs about cycling.

 

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Paris-Roubaix 2013

Posted on April 7, 2013 by Kathryn

It’s called the Hell of the North for a reason. Go ride your bike for 254 kilometers through dirt, dust, mud and anything else unpleasant you can think of. Just make sure you also rode through 27 different sets of cobblestones totaling over 50 kilometers and then finish with a lap and a half in a velodrome where strategy is just as important as strength. Then you’ll have an idea of what the peloton deals with in the annual Paris-Roubaix.

 

I could hardly contain my excitement approaching the velodrome. I spotted the team buses from a distance so I knew I was almost there!

 

Unfortunately, the French police sent me round and round in circles. There are plenty of spots from which to watch the race, but only one way to get into the stadium apparently. At least I got to see the 1km to go banner! Despite my best efforts, I wasn’t able to figure out how to get in the stadium, which was initially really frustrating, so I found a place that seemed like it would have a good vantage point.

I arrived shortly before the finish of the Junior Paris-Roubaix. I don’t know the course specifics, but the under-23 cyclists compete over a distance of 128.3 kilometers and, like the pros, finish in the velodrome. I could see right away that I would have a great view of the cyclists rounding the corner, so I quickly got over my disappointment of not sitting in the stands.

 

I wasn’t familiar with any of their names, but the Juniors race was good fun to watch. Only 66 riders finished and over 40 abandoned. Riders race by country, as opposed to under a sponsor. Dane Mads Pedersen won in 3:21:24 while Belgian Nathan Van Hooydonck and Brit Tao Geoghegan finished second and third, respectively. Belgium won the best team. In fact they were one of the few teams without a single rider to abandon.

 

There were still a good while until the pros were due to arrive, but there were plenty of things to watch: the Juniors’ peloton finish, the crew blow all the dirt off the track with leaf blowers, and the race live on a giant screen.

 

The crowd eagerly counted down the kilometers and, finally, race leaders Fabian Cancellara (Switzerland, Radioshack Leopard Trek) and Sep Vanmarke (Belgium, Blanco) entered the stadium. Cancellara was heavily favored to win the event given his form and that many of his closest rivals were sitting out this year’s Paris-Roubaix for various reasons. The pair burst onto the track at top speed with Cancellara looking over his shoulder at Vanmarcke and almost immediately they started a slow game of cat and mouse. Neither wanted to be in the lead and by the time they had finished three quarters of a lap, Vanmarcke was stuck in front with Cancellara tucked in behind.

 

They continued at what looked like a leisurely pace, even though they both must have had ample adrenaline pumping through their veins, right through the next turn.

 

Everyone was going crazy cheering for both Cancellara, the favorite and an all around well respected cyclist, and Vanmarcke from neighboring Belgium. Seconds later, Cancellara made his move and outgunned the Belgian just as the next group entered the track!

 

Niki Terpstra (Netherlands, Omega Pharma-Quick Step), reigning Dutch road champion, won a bunch sprint for third place.

 

Terpstra and Zdenek Stybar (Czech Republic, Omega Pharma-Quick Step) after finishing.



Meanwhile, Cancellara was so exhausted he needed help walking.

 

Vanmarcke and Terpstra were in somewhat better condition.

 

Riders confront their directeurs sportif and journalists.

 

Johan Vansummeren (Belgium, Garmin), the 2011 Paris-Roubaix winner.

 

Filippo Pozzato (Italy, Lampre) and Luca Paolini (Italy, Katusha).

 

Tyler Farrar (USA, Garmin), bloody and dirty.

 

Jack Bauer (New Zealand, Garmin).

 

The podium.

 

Just because the race was over didn’t mean the fun was over! Happily for me and every other cycling fan, the exit poured the spectators out right in the midst of the team buses. This poor Katusha rider had to pull his luggage behind him as he tried to ride to his bus!

 

It was packed!

 

At the Garmin bus, Johan Vansummeren and Martijn Maaskant (Netherlands) both chatted with family and colleagues.

 

 

Getting my picture with Bernhard Eisel (Austria, Sky).

 

Niki Terpstra gives an interview in front of his team bus.

 

Results

1. Fabian Cancellara, Switzerland, RadioShack Leopard Trek, 5:45:33

2. Sep Vanmarcke, Belgium, Blanco, same time

3. Niki Terpstra, Netherlands, Omega Pharma-Quick Step, +0:00:31

4. Greg Van Avermaet, Belgium, BMC, same time

5. Damien Gaudin, France, Europcar, same time

6. Zdenek Stybar, Czech Republic, Omega Pharma-Quick Step, +0:00:39

7. Sebastian Langeveld, Norway, Orica-Green Edge, same time

8. Juan Antonio Flecha, Spain, Vacansoleil, same time

9. Alexander Kristoff, Norway, Katusha, +0:00:50

10. Sebastien Turgot, France, Europcar, same time


Judging from the cyclists’ dirt-caked faces, it’s clear that Paris-Roubaix lived up to its nickname as the Hell of the North, but it’s nothing but sheer joy for cycling fans.

 

 

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I don’t speak Flemish…

Posted on April 6, 2013 by Kathryn

…but I've certainly enjoyed reading the signs in Belgium!

(This last one means blind donkey street.)

 

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Hungry for Belgium

Posted on April 5, 2013 by Kathryn

 

A couple of quick notes on food here.

 

Of all the chocolate shops in Brugge, Dumon is one of just four that still makes its own chocolate.

 

Belgian beers are much tastier but also much stronger than others. After just one, I can feel a grin slowly spread across my face and all I want is a nap.

 

If you're wondering about the Bicky crisp bag, this page does a good job of explaining what a Bicky burger is. The lone meat eater I'm traveling with was curious to try one until learning about the three different meats in the deep fried patty and we just can't bring ourselves to buy a bag of the chips.

 

I was a bit skeptical about the waffles I'd heard so much about. Really, waffles? I don't like them at breakfast so why would I want one as a snack? How wrong I was! These are not your breakfast waffles: they are richer, softer, butterier, and sweeter without overdoing it. And it doesn't hurt to drown it in gooey chocolate sauce and dust it with powdered sugar!

 

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