Lake Kivu boat ride

Lake Kivu is on the border of Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of Congo. The DRC city of Goma, which is immediately across the border, had been in the news recently because M23 rebels had temporarily captured it, but everything was calm and peaceful when I was in the area.

(Bird photos by Posh!)

 

In the morning we went on a boat ride of the lake.

 

We stopped to see local hot springs. The water was absolutely scalding and I could hardly stand to put my finger tips in. I don’t know how people could tolerate sitting in it!

 

There was a traditional dance show at dinner the night before. It was inevitable that we got dragged in, but since there are fortunately no photos of me dancing, here are some really awful European dancers instead.

 

 

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Nyungwe to Gisenyi

Dear reader, I’m falling dangerously behind in blogging these days so the next several posts will be photo-rich/text-poor in an attempt to catch up to present day!

 

It was a long day in the car driving from Nyungwe to Gisenyi. The scenery was gorgeous.


We’d actually passed this sign on the road, but I didn’t get a picture of it, so this is from a brochure instead.


Every time we stopped to take pictures of the views, people materialized out of nowhere.


Lots of people on their way to various markets.


Rwanda is trying to position itself as the technology hub of Africa, so there are fiber optic cables criss crossing the country.


If you’ve ever wondered what happens to the old clothes you donate, they end up in east Africa. It was pretty funny to see people wearing shirts that said “basketball state semi finalists 2003,” and “Lake Grove High Class of 1998” and such.


Posh updating Facebook on her phone. Of course.


 

 

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Hybrid monkey love

In the last post, I mentioned seeing a hybrid monkey among the Colobus monkeys. The name was so odd that I didn't think I had heard it right! But sure enough, hybrid monkeys exist.

 

They are the infertile offspring of a Mona and a red tailed monkey (when I uploaded this video to YouTube, I mistakenly wrote it's a blue monkey). Neither of the parents accept the hybrid monkey but, don't worry, the Colobus monkeys are happy to have the hybrid in their troop!

 

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Colobus monkey watching

Posh and I had to decide if we wanted to go on a canopy tour or go on a Colobus monkey trek in Ngunywe National Park. At first we planned to go on the canopy tour, but after the excitement of seeing the chimps, we wanted to see more wildlife and opted for the Colobus monkeys.

 

David drove us to a nearby tea plantation where we met our guide and our tracker.

 

We walked for only a few minutes before we came across the Colobus monkeys. There were dozens of them scampering in the trees on the tea plantation's periphery. Chimps are predators so Colobus monkeys tend to be found in the thin trees on the periphery of the forest because chimps prefer to be in denser trees. Colobus monkeys eat three times a day and spend the remainder of their waking hours grooming, resting, and playing. They live for about twenty five years and weigh about the same as house cats.

 

It wasn't long before a huge downpour drove us to seek shelter, so we patiently waited for the rain to pass. We were pretty wet, but the fast moving rain clouds caused dramatic changes in the sky which we loved watching.

 

When the rain let up enough, we headed back out. In addition to the Colobus monkeys, our guide pointed out blue monkeys, Mona monkeys, and a hybrid monkey (more on the hybrid monkey in the next post!). The rain continued on and off for much of the afternoon, but the monkeys weren't phased by it, so we happily stayed to watch them. The rain meant that the lighting wasn't ideal for photos, but that also meant we out down our cameras for awhile and just enjoyed the scene.

 

We were thrilled with our decision to see the monkeys instead of going on the canopy tour. Our guide was great company and answered a million nonstop questions from us about the monkeys. And the monkeys, of course, were fascinating and hilarious to watch!

 

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Chimpanzee trekking

The rest of the drive to Ngunywe took us past a sprawling refugee camp. For the rest of the week, we noticed the ubiquitous presence of tarps from the UN High Commission for Refugees across the country.

 

We arrived at our hilltop hotel in a downpour after driving up a slippery mud road. Posh and I shared a cottage with a bedroom, bathroom, and cozy sitting room complete with fireplace.

 

The next morning, we were up well before sunrise in order to drive into the national park to go chimpanzee trekking.

 

None of my pictures turned out terribly well as the chimps were generally obscured by leaves and branches, but it was exciting to see them despite the less than ideal conditions.

 

Babies stay with their mothers until five years old. Chimps have a fifty-five year lifespan. They spend much of their time in trees eating leaves, though they also eat meat. Each night, a chimp will make a new nest in a tree for sleeping and will abandon it in the morning (pictured below).

 

We trekked for a few hours round trip. I didn't pay too much attention to the landscape as we headed towards the chimps in the morning, but I made sure to take my time on the way back. The trees were thick and butterflies hovered all around. It was a sunny morning as we headed back to the hotel for lunch.

 

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Murambi Genocide Memorial

It's been so easy to put off finishing this post for the last few weeks. Life has kept me happily busy of late, so I haven't wanted to dwell too much on seeing the horrors of Rwanda's genocide, but I've finally finished my post about the Murambi Genocide Memorial. The blog should be regularly updated from now on.


As we continued the drive to Nyungwe Forest National Park, we stopped to visit the Murambi Genocide Memorial. Walking up the long, eerily quiet path, I couldn't help but think of sickly peaceful Auschwitz had also been when I had visited the famous death camp.


In the 1990s, Murambi was home to a technical college perched at the top of a hill. During the genocide in 1994, Tutsi were told to seek refuge at the college where they would be safe. Tens of thousands flocked here seeking safety. Instead, they were stripped of any food they brought with them and trapped on the campus. Anyone who tried to leave was killed. In the middle of the night, the extremist Hutu Interhamwe attacked the college. In a matter of hours, tens of thousands of Tutsi were massacred.


Today, the college buildings house a museum and horrible reminders of what people are capable of.


The information presented in the museum was a bit disappointing. It wasn't always in chronological order, was extremely one sided (even for a genocide museum), was often unclear or confusing, and raised more questions than it answered.


That said, it was an extremely moving place to visit. Outside of the main building are several smaller buildings, many of which have been left frozen in their mid-construction state. These buildings were meant to be dorms and classrooms for the school. Instead, they now house the remains of those who were murdered here almost two decades ago. The corpses have been preserved in Lyme, giving them an odd, all white appearance. The bodies are laid out in awkward positions on platforms in each room. Some of the corpses have an arm extended, like they were trying to ask for help. Others are tangled up in each other, leading me to imagine people grabbing their loved ones in the final moments before an early death.


As we walked away, Posh and I struggled to make sense of what we had just seen. The only conclusion we could come to was that everyone in the country seemed to have gone mad during the genocide and David, our Rwandan driver who had lived through the terrible events as a boy, readily agreed.

 

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Huye, Rwanda

Our Rwandan road trip began bright and early this morning as my friend Posh and I hit the road with David, our driver for the week, bound for Nyungwe Forest National Park. Even though I had already traveled on this same road to Cyangugu a couple of days prior, it was a completely different experience to be in a private Toyota Land Cruiser with a friend and our own personal driver than on a bus next to a puking passenger!

 

Our first stop was the National Museum of Rwanda in Huye, formerly known as Butare. The museum consisted of seven rooms, displaying traditional tools, weapons, loincloths, huts, baskets, and pottery alongside information about the language and geology of the land. At one point, Posh got swarmed by school children on a field trip, which was pretty funny to watch.

 

There was plenty to see out the window as we drove on: men pushing their loaded bicycles up hills, women carrying babies on their backs and baskets on their heads, prisoners at work in rice paddies (convicted criminals wear orange jumpsuits while prisoners in pink are still awaiting trial), villages, and endless rolling hills.

 

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Cyangugu, Rwanda

Getting to Cyangugu wasn't a whole lot of fun. Even though the roads were perfectly paved, my seatmate spent most of the journey throwing up into a paper bag. Plastic bags are illegal in Rwanda, an attempt to limit litter and pollution, but I had one handy so I gave him the plastic ziplock bag I use for storing my travel toilet paper. That was a slight improvement, although by then his paper bag had, well, leaked all over the floor. Oh dear. Not too much later, we came to a stand still in traffic. There was an accident ahead that was blocking the entire road, so we disembarked from our bus and walked to the other side of the accident, where we boarded another bus. At least this bus didn't have puke on the floor (I felt really badly for the people who had to get on our bus!).

 

Despite all this, it took about six minutes to fall in love with Rwanda. The immigration officer at the border parted the small group of people in front of me like Moses to declare, “On behalf of the Rwandan people of Rwanda, I am happy to welcome you to Rwanda!” I had to suppress a laugh as I wondered if the non-Rwandan people of Rwanda didn't want to welcome me. I think it had been awhile since he had seen a passport that wasn't from Burundi or Rwanda. Also, the scenery is stunning and you will definitely hear more about it in upcoming posts. Rwanda is nicknamed The Land of a Thousand Hills and this is no understatement. Many people used bicycles to get around and, rather than pedal up exhausting hill after hill, several people opted instead to grab onto a truck and let it do the work! It made me think of Michael J. Fox and his skateboard in Back to the Future.

 

I spent a night in mellow Cyangugu, located in the country's southwest and on the border with the Democratic Republic of Congo. The border is a narrow footbridge and it was busy at all hours of the day.

 

Cyangugu is a fishing town on Lake Kivu so there were plenty of fishing boats around. That's about all there was in Cyangugu!

 

From here, I hopped a bus for about six hours to Kigali, the capital. I spent a relaxed afternoon with friends from Peace Corps who had recently moved to Kigali before meeting up with a friend from the UK to spend the week traveling the country together.

 

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Bujumbura, Burundi

I’ll admit it, I wanted to visit Burundi mostly to check it off my list. I knew very little about this small country other than it had been colonized by the Belgians who played on ethnic divisions between Tutsi and Hutus which resulted in several bloody eras in the nation’s recent history.

I arrived in Bujumbura, the capital and the only city discussed in my guidebook’s meager twelve pages devoted to Burundi. The drive from the Tanzanian border was scenic, taking us along surprisingly well paved roads and passed fishing villages on the coast of Lake Tanganyika for much of the way. Whenever we stopped, a dozen women with platters on their heads materialized out of nowhere. They were selling some sort of food wrapped in banana leaves.


Much of my time in Buj, as locals call it, was spent going to the Rwandan embassy to get a visa. Otherwise, I mostly just wandered around town. There weren’t really any museums or tourist things to do in the capital, but somehow I wasn’t at all bored. I was happy to be able to communicate with people as Burundi is French speaking, an appreciated change from Tanzania, and there was a large enough expat presence that almost no one paid any attention to me as a mzungu.


I ended up really enjoying Buj. The town is like a cross between east Africa (dirt roads, mild chaos, frequent power failures, incredibly worn and frail banknotes) and Europe (plenty of cafes, lots of hustle and bustle activity, waitresses brought the bill at the end of my meal without me having to seek them out). People here were genuinely friendly and I felt safe and welcomed.


My hotel was clean and comfortable, although I’m not sure what was up with the sheets.


I met a friendly Burundian man at breakfast one morning and he invited me to have dinner with him and his wife the following evening. This turned out to be the highlight of my brief stay in Burundi. Oscar and his wife were welcoming and put together a great vegetarian dinner for me, even though vegetarianism is not at all common in their culture.

 

The following morning, I headed north for Rwanda.

 

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Goodbye Tanzania

I spent a little over a month in Tanzania. I did a good amount but there were a few places I didn't get to so we'll see what happens in the future. I just know next time I want to take more flights in Tanzania–no more buses!

 

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